Lane's Ramblings

... Well, sort of. Today, after work (actually it was, we were trying to get out of there early but didn't end up leaving until 5) a few of us headed down to Smith's Beach on Philip Island to get in our first bit of surfing. We had 4 riders and 2 boards but no worries because we can just take turns. Unfortunately, Smith's Beach was PACKED and FLAT and there was no reason to stay around there, which brought us a little east to Woolamai Beach (still on Philip Island). This place was not packed at all and had some big surf. So after a quick lesson and putting on the wet suit (needed in Victoria, even when it's 36C like it was today) we got in the water. The first bit was just riding the wave in while lying down, which wasn't so bad but it can be tough to keep your balance with rushing water all around you. Then came trying to stand up.

So can I do it? Well, I didn't. I got up to my feet once or twice but then my board would go flying through the air. One of the problems is getting out to the waves - this surf was big (for me) and I don't know the most efficient way to get out to where I'm supposed to be. I also can't duck-dive so the big waves would push me back quite a ways and I'd have to start again. So by the time I pick a wave to ride I was too tired to push myself up.

What have I learned? Paddle hard.. oh, for the love of God, paddle hard. I was trying to get up on the board while I was on top of the wave instead of in front of it. But when I was paddling it felt like I wasn't going anywhere. But I think I picked it up when I was bodysurfing and I'll get it next time I go out.

Do I have pictures? I don't think so. There's video but I don't have it - maybe I can get some stills off of that.

I will be buying a board and I will be doing that soon. Pretty soon I won't be showing up to work and become an official beach bum. I'm liking it.